In January 2004 we undertook a seven week visit to Tanzania to help with and advise on the running of health posts around Emau Hill where Tukae is based. Unsure what to expect, we were allowed an extra 20 kg on the flight. We took medical equipment, drugs and books, some donated by Treliske Hospital for the Third World.

The first days we had a pleasant rest at a resort near Dar es Salaam, and were able to talk to Stephen Valentine, Tukae's Operations Manager, and discuss the plans and hopes of Tukae.

On the third day our bus to Muheza broke down and we were delayed for five hours; fortunately, John, Tukae's driver, waited to take us up the 40 km dirt track to Emau Hill. Caroline, Althea and the three other volunteers kindly waited for us before starting their evening meal. Unpacking later by torch light was somewhat difficult.

The following morning we could appreciate the beauty of the surroundings for the first time. Later we were introduced to the Rural medical officer based at Emau Hill. He is 71 years old and held in high esteem; indeed some would walk many miles to see him. We found him to be quite knowledgable about the common diseases of the area. He had been expecting us and had arranged for some problem patients to visit us in the ensuing weeks.

During our stay we assisted at clinics, on our own and with the help of a translator.

We saw 350 patients altogether. About 40% had malaria, a condition which we hardly see in Britain, but which causes 300 deaths a day in Tanzania. Another common problem was intestinal parasites, particularly hookworm, which makes the victims anaemic. There were also all the problems that a G.P. in Britain would see, but despite these illnesses some had walked for miles to see us.

In some cases we found conditions which we considered needed referral to hospital; unfortunately, most could not afford either the journey to Muheza or possible further treatment. On four occasions we had to make the long journey to the hospital in a Tukae's ancient Land Rover with very ill patients.

Everyone was very happy when the first baby was born at Emau Hill, the first son for John our driver.

It is hoped that the Medical Services can be developed by the formation of a Dispensary which will have beds where patients can be observed and treated. This will also oversee the other health posts.

During our stay we visited hospitals in Muheza and Tanga to see what facilities were offered.
Emau is a beautiful area with much biodiversity. There are many birds, trees, butterflies and monkeys. There is moderate rainfall and the temperature is a pleasant 18 - 28 C. There is, of course, the constant danger of malaria, but we avoided this by prophylaxis and protection against mosquito bites.

Meals were provided, and although mostly vegetarian, were good. Darkness came at 7 pm and after our meal we chatted with the other volunteers on many subjects. The teachers often had funny stories to tell of their teaching experiences and their difficulties with classes of sometimes more than 100 pupils and problems from lack of equipment.

In our final week we had two days at Serengeti, Olduvai and Ngorongoro Crater, enabling us to see all the big mammals. Unfortunately our group of four, which included two Germans, all contracted gastro-enteritis; I think from a suspect packed lunch. We had to spend two nights in a Tanga hotel in place of the two days we had booked in Zanzibar, but then it leaves something for next time.